I.
It’s probably not very useful to counter or dissect the claims made by Jonathan Safran Foer in his first work of non-fiction, Eating Animals. Foer is a Romantic, a sentimental idealist. We saw this in Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close, his terrific novel that ached for a world before 9/11, cemented by the closing flip book that turned history backwards. While his first novel, Everything is
Illuminated, was less Romantic in tone, it still espoused a certain kind of idealistic permanence (the past is always present). So it’s no surprise that he comes off a little earnest in Eating Animals, in spite of making small attempts at self-deprecation and attempts at investigative journalism. The prevailing tone of the book tries to capture the personal dilemma about why we eat as we do, sparked by the birth of Foer’s son and how he and his wife (author Nicole Krauss, whose novel The History of Love fits nicely between Foer’s in tone) will reconcile cultural and traditional aspects of meals with new ethical and moral concerns about the nature of factory farms.
Foer chronicles the landscape as he does in his fiction, from a variety of points of view blending a variety of structures. In Eating Animals he rotates between personal narrative, third person accounts, an Ambrose Bierce-type dictionary, an interview, and traditional journalism research. It is through this kaleidoscope that he reaches his answer: he cannot morally justify the eating of any meat. For those who do eat meat, he advocates family farms as the only acceptable option.
Part of the lynchpin of Foer’s approach is that “we are not merely animals that eat, but eating animals.” The attempt is made by Foer and by those he interviews to level the species, sort of like Mark Twain’s essay “The Damned Human Race.” The trickiness here, of course, is that animals act on instinct and eat one another, which sets Foer and his crowed into a complex mental gymnastics routine trying to explain how we are like animals but really that animals are like us, etc.
More interesting are some of Foer’s literary moments, like his willingness to embrace the paradox that food creates for us.
Remembering and forgetting are part of the same mental process. To write down one detail of an event is to not write down another (unless you keep writing forever). To remember one thing is to let another slip from remembrance (unless you keep recalling forever). There is ethical as well as violent forgetting. We can’t hold onto everything we’ve known so far. So the question is not whether we forget, but what, or whom, we forget—not whether or diets change, but how.
It sounds straight out of Everything is Illuminated (“We are writing we are writing we are writing”). He later ties this idea of what we remember to Thanksgiving. “The Thanksgiving turkey is the flesh of competing instincts—of remembering and forgetting.” We remember the culture and the family and the pomp of the holiday; we forget and turn a blind eye to the immoral practices that brought us the bird.
The other aspect of the book that lets Foer’s prose sing a little is when he touches on his own family, when he is most personal. When he describes the nature of the changes at family tables because of Time, he says, “As if the musical chairs I played at birthday parties were preparation for all of this ending and beginning.”
II.
Perhaps the solution to Foer’s frustration with the public’s choices over food can be found in Steven Levitt’s new look at microeconomics, SuperFreakonomics. Levitt continues to discuss incentives, but focuses a good chunk of the book on externalities and the challenges of changing human behavior, whether it is getting doctor’s to wash their hands or the government to make more
cost-effective decisions.
Levitt relies on Gary Becker’s (1992 Nobel winner) definition of “the economic approach”: “a method of analysis, not an assumption about particular motivations.” Foer clearly has motivations, though not necessarily political, and assumptions, though some of his assumptions are actually the obstacles to achieving his goal of a meat-free diet. What Foer lacks is a method of analysis. It is at times anecdotal, at times research-based, and at times personal narrative. Levitt would surely scoff at Foer’s method, though he might admire the section linking influenza to chicken consumption. Levitt says, “…the economic approach aims… to address a given topic with neither fear nor favor, letting numbers speak the truth. We don’t take sides…The economic approach isn’t meant to describe the world as any one of us might want it to be, or fear that it is, or pray that it becomes—but rather to explain what it actually is.”
Some of Foer’s suggestions (labeling certain types of fish with how many other animals were killed as bycatch) sound very similar to the methods that Levitt describes were attempted with doctors who weren’t washing hands. They were given free gift cards, lectures, etc. but it wasn’t until the bacteria from their hands was put on their screen savers that doctor’s actually changed their behavior. In other words, it takes more than intellectual and moral knowledge when other externalities are at play. This is what is happening in the realm of food. Like doctors who simply found it more expedient to not wash hands (even though they knew the deadly stats), so, too, are those of us who find it more expedient to grill up some Tyson chicken from Kroger even though the horrors of factory farms have been well-documented.
Foer frustratingly challenges whether that’s “as far as our moral imaginations can stretch.” His earnestness blinds him to the externalities that SuperFreakonomics describes and prevents him from really leaving the realm of moral imagination and entering the world of practical solutions.
For example, in wondering about why we value dogs over fish, Foer questions whether “nearness and distance are even relevant…If we were to one day encounter a form of life more powerful and intelligent than our own, and it regarded us as we regard fish, what would be our argument against being eaten?” It would be unfair to cite this an example of all of Foer’s logic, but it is fairly representative of the first third of the book.
III.
In looking at Foer’s writing, readers will be familiar with his willingness to maximize the structure, typography, and other Post-Modern artifacts to tell his story. We have a list of definitions, a letter, first person accounts, and pseudo-journalism mixed with pseudo-history. It’s a blending of genre and style that suits Foer well.
What doesn’t suit him as well is the limitation of non-fiction. Where the earnestness of Oskar Schell is heartbreaking, the earnestness of Foer trying to sneak into an unfed chicken coop feels, well, fishy.
In fact, the most poignant sections of this book are when Foer describes his own family, especially his grandmother, a Holocaust survivor who once hoarded 60 pounds of flour. As he describes the role of food in his family’s Jewish faith and the decisions he has to make in translating that to his son and how that is held in tension against his ethical beliefs about animals, Foer is winsome. He is, after all, a novelist, who once confessed in a Morning News interview that it’s the little things the novelist deals with:
When you write a book, you are able to concentrate on very, very specific things. Individuals doing very specific acts. Orhan Pamuk once said that every book, at the end of the day is about showing how similar people are to one another. And how different they are from one another. And you do that by showing how somebody pours coffee and drinks it.
Nobel winner JM Coetzee was able to successfully do this in Disgrace, a 1999 novel where professor David Lurie ends up working at a
South African animal shelter. Here he “finds the punishment and salvation that Lurie finds at Bev’s animal shelter.” Through Lurie’s eyes Coetzee is able to create sympathy and even empathy for animals in a way that non-fiction simply cannot. Which is not to say that Coetzee’s efforts at the same topic in Elisabeth Costello and The Slow Man were anywhere near as effective as Disgrace was. But it’s a topic that perhaps links Coetzee and Foer, and I think Coetzee’s approach is, in the long run, more effective.
Foer scores biggest on the personal level. When he delves into stats, definitions, and describing the big picture of the animal industry, you can only get the feeling that there are probably more definitive researchers out there.
But when he gives us his grandmother’s truth, that “If nothing matters, there’s nothing to save,” the writing comes alive. He mentions that he will one day tell her story. Here’s hoping that she’s his next non-fiction topic.
IV.